Saturday, July 31, 2010

A Very, Merry Un-birthday

It came to our attention that Dinah and Agnes, the young women who help around the compound, had never had a birthday celebration, much less cake or a gift. Dinah’s birthday is June 6, and she was 26 and Agnes’s birthday is December 26 and she was 21. So we planned an “un-birthday” party for them….. cake, noisemakers and presents.

It was wonderful to watch the surprise as they walked in the door, wondering what we were celebrating now, never expecting it to be them! With “Happy Un-birthday” sung, it was time to blow out the candles, with the reminder to make a wish. The cake was cut and passed out, with excitement from the girls and semi groans from the rest of us. Rwandan cakes are beautiful, elegantly frosted with cherries or candies placed on top but the cake itself leaves much to be desired. The best description one could give would be akin to sawdust, held together by paste, but it is the best cake in Kagli!

For gifts, everyone staying in the guesthouse pitched in and got the girls a piece of traditional fabric and paid for the local seamstress to make them a new dress. They were so overwhelmed by the entire ordeal that they could not imagine getting a new dress (not something received as a hand-me-down from people leaving the guest house).

A great time was had by all and we all vowed to remember this un-birthday date for a party next year! This is not a difference in culture it is a difference in status! Many Rwandans I know celebrate birthdays and even have big parties. Yet due to their position in society as servants, even something lower than a servant for which I do not know the name, many of life’s basic joys are personally foreign to them. They see the celebrations, create the meals, serve and clean up after all the people who attend, yet it is never for them. Will our small effort make a difference in their lives? I do not know, I hope it did, I do know it was a very, merry un-birthday!

Agnes and Dinah Celebrating Their "Unbirthdays"


The Cement Floor is Coming!!!



We are happy to report that at one of our last visits to the Community Vocational Training Institute of Kigali (the former Meg School), we found the women and their machines sitting outside. At first we thought the reason was the beautiful sunny day, but upon entering the building, we soon found out why. The cement floor, that the WCSS purchase of bags for the 2011 conference helped in large part to pay for, was in the beginning stages. You cannot possibly imagine the difference this will make in that building. Although other improvements need to be done, it is a huge step and something that WCSS should be proud of being a part of.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Tora Kagame

Tora Kagame
It is election season in Rwanda and the Kagame fever is wild. The posters and t-shirts are everywhere. The posters are plastered on the sides and windows of buses and cars (on the front and back windows!) Bumper stickers are everywhere, including on the visors of the moto drivers. Everyone is wearing a “Tora Kagame” (Vote Kagame) T-shirt or something that states people are for the “RPF party.” (Rwandan Patriotic Front)

Kagame’s slogan is “Imvugo Niyo Ngiro” meaning his “ Words are his Actions.” There are many wonderful things Kagame has done for Rwanda during his term beginning in 1994, effectively ending the Genocide of 1994. Since that time, Rwanda has become one of the greatest success stories of Africa; in economic, education, and technological developments. Thus creating the hub of the new East African Union.

With his re-election is assured by a wide margin, one might ask where is the opposition?

Monday, July 26, 2010

Tora Kagame!

Essau, Jerome, Dinah & Agnes sporting their new Kagame shirts

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Oral History

Think of the joy of sitting down with friends and telling stories, about your life, your day, and your family. This is what taking oral histories for Global Grassroots is akin to. . . . sitting down with friends and learning more and more about them.

Recently, I had the opportunity to meet with two groups of people, my friend Seraphine, founder of the Abanyamyraua (Hard Workers) Water Group and Perpetiyote and Francine, graduates of the Let Us Build Ourselves - Literacy Project. In both cases, it was remarkable to watch these womens lives unfold; to discover how their lives became stronger via their participation in the projects they worked with and their own tenacity! The personal strength they all have is astonishing!

To have the opportunity to work with these women and hear their stories is a gift. To receive the stories of these women comes with the great obligation to get the stories out into the world – to ensure that I do not do a disservice to that which has been entrusted to me. Oral histories, coveted gems of information held dear, to be prepared and released for all to know.


Saturday, July 24, 2010

Adventures with Erin Continue

Yesterday marked Erin's final day in Rwanda, but not the end of our adventures with her. Friday night was her going away party at "the main house". All enjoyed some of Erin's favorite foods-- beans and rice, and rice and beans. Actually down deep, I think she will miss Agnes's red beans. The evening concluded with traditional music played and sung by Emmanuel on the violin. Glen's (the man who owns the guest house we are staying in) daughter and other guests entertained us as well with traditional dancing.

There were many who were sad to see Erin go. I think if the two house girls could have figured out how to sneak away with her they would have been right by her side. Agnes, the cook, told me that afternoon that she knows Erin will have a big house and that she'd love to go to Nome. She said she has hope (because God loves her) that one day she will be able to visit all of us in America.

Our adventures with Erin didn't end until we got to the airport. Earlier in the week, she had carefully packed her treadle sewing machine in a cardboard box to take as checked baggage back to Nome with her. In all likelihood we knew she would have to pay overage charges, but when she got to the counter to check her belongings, she was told that she could not pay overage charges and would have to get her box (which was almost 25 lbs. overweight) down to the allowed limit. Of course, by this time, Erin had passed through the screening and was on her own (although one of the airline employees helped) to repack her box. She ended up carrying her machine and putting her backpack in the box.

As we write, she should be in the air, jetting her way to a few days in the Midwest. From there she's off to more great adventures on her own-- building her yurt and starting her new job as Director of Education at the Nome Hospital.

From Melissa - As Erin leaves, I do not know when I will see her face to face (not via Skype) again, a hard thing for a mom to face after having an entire month with her grown up daughter. I am so proud of the work she did in Rwanda! and of the way she adjusted to the "over crowding" of Kigali. But mostly, I am proud of the woman my daughter has become taking on adventures of a lifetime with style and grace, winning the hearts and minds of people from around the world and just being Erin. I cannot wait until my next "Adventure with Erin" begins. I hope it is soon.

Altruism in Action

During the time I've had the opportunity to travel Rwanda with Melissa, I have seen her caring and giving spirit in action. Those who know here well, know this is just part of her nature. Whether it has been bringing chocolate back for the housegirls or feeding bananas and milk to the street boys that seem to materialize out of nowhere near Ndoli's Store when she is there, I can think of countless acts of giving I've seen.

Last week when we were interviewing Serephine, she gave once more. One of Serephine's children, Manuel was keeping a watchful eye on his mother and playing football (soccer) with his ball made of banana leaves. Melissa noticed his shoes were quite worn and falling apart. She took her own sandals off and gave them to Manuel who just beamed. This of course meant that she made the trip to the well and back barefoot. While returning from the well, she also took one of the gerry cans from one of the young girls and carried it to the top of the hill (remember this was just 2 days after being released from the hospital).


Manuel

Election Season is in Full Gear

The Rwandan Presidential Election is just a matter of a few weeks away. These elections are a huge step toward the continuation of this fledgling democracy in eastern Africa. Unlike the US where campaigns seem to begin years ahead of the elections, the official campaigning here kicked off last week for the August 10th elections. Billboards proclaiming, in both kinyarwandan (the language spoken by many Rwandans) and English, "I will be there" are widely scattered throughout the country.

Earlier this week we woke to load cheering, speeches and music coming from the National Stadium. President Paul Kagame's election campaign had kicked off that morning. While we were waiting for a taxi to take us to one of our projects, the streets suddenly became filled with a good share of the minibuses that serve as transportation for many of the residents and visitors of Kigali. Each was full of jubilant Kagame supporters taking the rally to the streets. The political campaigning is not hard to miss. Frequently, one sees large trucks with load speakers in the back and young men either jamming to the music or creating a little music of their own.

From the looks of the political advertising and if one didn't know better, one would assume that Paul Kagame is the only candidate running. Huge billboards and posters cover the city and surrounding areas. His face graces the front of many t-shirts worn by adults and children alike. Cabs and cars are decked out in Kagame bumper stickers and the children proudly wear their Kagame paper hats and wave their RPF flags. It really is hard to find people in the city who do not support the work and reelection of Kagame.

As a western in Rwanda, I can see that the country has come a long way since the 1994 genocide, but it still has a long way to go. It will be interesting to follow the election results from home, but from here it seems clear what the people's opinion will be.

Rwandan Presidential Election Campaigning Begins





Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Domestic Help

Having domestic help in Rwanda is a must. Everything! Everything is labor intensive from the need to wipe down the floors and furniture daily because of the dust to the preparation of the food to the hand washing of the laundry. The compound in which we are staying has two women (girls), Agnes and Dinah, and two men, Jerome and Esau, as domestics.

Let me discuss the men first. Esau is 23 years old, limited education and does not “live in” the compound, meaning he shows up at dawn each day and leaves past nightfall. While he is here, he never stops moving, he is scrubbing or wiping things down, or cutting bushes or grass by hand. He seems to be a jack-of-all-trades and those he does not know he is learning from Jerome.

Jerome, age 46, is one of the kindest, gentlest souls I have ever met. He is the night watchman and the head groundskeeper. Now you might be thinking, when does he sleep? Only for about five or six hours in the afternoon, if he is lucky. He is constantly on-call. One would think he would be rushed and crabby, but just the opposite, he is kind, takes time with the children, finds the avocados which have fallen from the trees and brings them in and feeds the pet bunny flowers.

Agnes, age 19 who has been here since she was 14, is the main cook and cares for the owners’ children. Her food is wonderfully tasteful and unique. We seem to be a constant bother in her kitchen asking for a plate or a tomato and she stops all the preparations on her outside charcoal burning stove to attend to our needs. We are even allowed to help prepare the food at times; we pick the stones and chafe out of the rice or “things” out of the beans. I am not sure if we are helping or are being kept busy like children who are in the way.

Dinah, age 23, is in charge of all the cleaning and cleaning there is! Two houses, loads and loads of laundry (all done by hand) and every surface to be washed and rewashed every daily. She is constantly walking through the house, picking up and emptying the garbage, never tiring, always smiling and ready to answer our questions or teach us a new word.

Looking at their life I often think of how hard it is, the seemly endless toil, but then I understand in the hierarchy of Rwandan society what causes this lifestyle to happen, just as in American society there are those who have more and those who have less. The domestics here are very lucky they are not treated like help; they are treated like family.

Our "Rwandan Family"


Dinah
Agnes

Jerome

Esau creating the "bunny bush"

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Abanyamurava- Water Project

One of the main projects we are working on in Rwanda is taking the oral histories of the founders, participants and people affected by the projects of Global Grassroots. It is a remarkable process and I am learning more than I ever thought imagined about Rwanda and its people. The histories range from personal stories of triumph over tragedy to professional accounts of their projects and the people they effected.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to visit with and take the history of my good friend Seraphine, founder of the Abanyamurava (Hard Workers) water project in Gahanga. This project started in 2007 by Seraphine, a woman with a first grade education and the daughter of a farmer who knew first hand the plight of water shortage on one’s family through personal hygiene and farm crops. Prior to starting the project, none of her children attended school as lack of water caused the entire family to work harder for the small things they had; crops, water for washing or cooking and even ensuring health through an adequate intake of water.

Seraphine’s shared the story that prior to going to the Global Grassroots training and starting Abanyamurava she had only one dress, no coat and never even considered the thought of sending her children to school. Now Seraphine is an elected leader in her community, children are in school and her family’s farm is doing well. She and her children have more than one outfit to wear and even coats to wear. Seraphine is teaching other women about how to start the same type of water collect process in their communities and some of the practices of the Global Grassroots training.

It was a wonderful day for me to learn more about my friend Seraphine, to give her the chance to voice the story she never thought she would be able to tell and to spend time learning about how a farm woman in Rwanda feels about the plight of her life before and after her “Abanyamurava” starts.

Water Project Photos


Serephine



Monday, July 19, 2010

The True Value of a Pencil-- Let Us Build Ourselves Project




So often as I am here, I experience thoughts of how Americans don't know how lucky they are. I see even very tiny children hardly able to carry a gerry can for water heading off to the well. I know perfectly well many of them will never see the inside of a classroom-- never learn to read, write or do mathematics. I know still others make great sacrifices of long walks to even have the opportunity to go to school. I believe many Americans take education for granted. They don't know the power of being able to read, write, add, and subtract.

Nowhere was this more clear than in our visits to the Let Us Build Ourselves Project in Nyamirambo Market. This project focuses on literacy training for vulnerable women. Innocent Baguma recognized the tremendous challenges illiterate women in his community faced. They faced lack of privacy. Challenges arose each time they traveled and couldn't read the signs or when they had to have others assist them in the voting process. These women truly did not have a voice. Initially the participants wanted to learn math skills which would allow them to be more effective in the market place, but the need to learn to read was also important to this success so that became a focus as well.

If there ever was a doubt in my mind why I teach, it was quickly resolved as I heard Innocent tell his story and later visited the classroom. The successes the school has produced has not been without challenges. Like schools in the U.S. funding is an issue, but here so little could go so far. The school is struggling to meet the payments for the building they use-- just $110/month. They have enough money to get them through August. Listening to Innocent & Denny (one of the teachers) tell of the successes this program has produced for the majority of its participants, makes it truly sad to see them struggling. They do have hope, but also face struggles ahead.

I returned with our interpreter on Thursday to visit the classroom. The women had just finished their studies, but had stayed on to talk to us. Although we thought we were going to just talk to a couple of the women, I was surprised that all wanted to stay. The women in the very dark room with the chalkboard up front ranged in age from their mid-teens to almost 70. The group was ultimately represented in the interviews we were doing by two of the oldest-- one 58 and the other almost 70. These women spoke passionately about how learning to read and do math has helped changed their lives.

Before departing, I gave each woman some of the pencils donated by school children (many of them kids in my district of West Salem). It is amazing the love that was shared when they received just a half dozen pencils each. I was blessed with many hugs and kisses and kind words in Kinyarwandan. Ultimately, I had made a promise to come back before I head to America and during my next visit to Rwanda to bring the "movie" I made of them with me. These women so desperately want to learn basic English which they believe would further their abilities in the markets.

The final surprise of the day was on me though. My interpreter, Julius, said the women would like to share a traditional dance with me. Soon men and children had hauled drums and other instruments into the back of the room and the door and windows were full of onlookers. It truly was an amazing experience. First the women in the class danced for me and even managed to get me out dancing with them (something that is pretty well out of my comfort zone). They were followed by Innocent and my interpreter who were the only "brave" men to step forward. The afternoon ended with dancing by the young boys and girls as well. To say this was an unforgettable experience is a huge understatement.

Let Us Build Ourselves Photos




Detour to King Faisal

As many of you know, Melissa spent last summer traveling throughout Rwanda. This past week, she decided one place she hadn't visited was King Faisal Hospital, what is noted as the best hospital in the country. After feeling ill for a couple of days, she agreed to go see the embassy recommended doctor. She was admitted with a major case of malaria and an ancillary infection caused probably by a tick bite. She was checked into one of the VIP rooms on the 3rd floor. After much rest, fluids, and antibiotics (and wonderful hospital food--I'm kidding), I'm happy to report that she is sitting in the sling back chair next to me on the porch as I type this entry doing WCSS work.


King Faisal is only about a 10-15 minute bus ride from our compound. One passes down a street lined with shanties that try to pass themselves off as businesses and homes. Corrugated metal roofs are held on by large rocks and many of the external walls are cardboard. In the afternoons, you could hear the children playing in the local swimming hole and see men, women and children headed to the water source to get their daily water supply in their gerry cans.

So you may ask how does the medical system in Rwanda compare to the US. Doctor consultation fee was the equivalent of $16. Total cost of her 5 day stay was just over $400. As in many cases, the hospital food left a bit to be desired. Melissa longed for the chocolate cake from convention.

One evening when I was returning to visit Melissa, I found military officials lining the street and a couple of guards walking the balconies. I'd like to say the guards were there to keep Melissa in bed and resting, but there certainly was another VIP in the hospital that night.

All in all, Melissa was well cared for. The doctor eventually stopped discussing deporting her once the antibiotics seemed to have kicked in. She is under strict orders to spend the month after she wraps up here relaxing on the beach. Think that will happen?

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Altruism, Bags & Cement

We came to learn that last year the money WCSS spent on the convention bags paid off the Community Vocational Training School's (former Meg School) old building. This year the 570 bags in 15 new fabric choices will help to pour a cement floor in the "new" building. In an interview with one of the founders of the Meg School, he said that there was a high amount of doubt about whether or not the school would be able to continue to function. He was waiting for a sign and when WCSS placed its order for this coming year's conference, he "knew" the program could continue. Our visits and work with CVTS have enabled us to meet this year's students; marginalized women 15-50 from prostitutes to school drop outs to single mothers and orphans are learning a trade which will help them better their lives and the lives of their families.

If you want to place a bag order, let us know by this Saturday, July 24th. No order is too big or too small. Drop us an email at wcss2011@gmail.com or wcss2009@gmail.com.


Monday, July 12, 2010

Community Vocational Training School Photos






Saturday, July 10, 2010

Gorilla Trekking in Volcanoes National Park


Saturday found us arriving early at the Volcanoes National Park in western Rwanda. It is truly different country than the Kigali Area or the savanna lands of the east. The high mountain peaks are frequently obscured by a layer of clouds. The temperatures are much cooler and we even saw a little rain our second night there. The soil is rich in nutrients, a result of the volcanic eruptions over the years. We decided that if we could acquire one of the small number of daily permits given to visit the mountain gorillas, we would take the chance of the lifetime for a visit. Shortly after my arrival in Rwanda, we learned that we had received permits to make the trek.
After an early evening on Friday, we arrived before 7:30 a.m. to negotiate with the guides regarding which group we would get to see. Ultimately, we were assigned the Sabyinyo Group which live in the saddle area between Mount Gahinga & Mount Sabyinyo. They live on the edge of a dormant volcano. We made an initially easy start up the mountain, but soon found our way hacking through the jungle undergrowth with the trackers cutting the growth with their machetes. It took us a bit over an hour to reach them, but about the time they were spotted, the group climbed further down into the crater of the volcano. This meant that we would pretty much slide on our backsides down the side of the crater. This group has the oldest and biggest silverback. Erin got so close to the silverback (under the close watch of one of the trackers) that she could have reached out and touched him (or fell right in his lap if she had slipped). They are truly amazing creatures. The little ones were fighting and tumbling down the mountainside. At one point they were hiding in a huge bush making quite furious noises, thumping their chests, etc.

When internet permits, we will post some of Erin's videos and photos.

Technical Difficulties

We've been experiencing a few technical difficulties that have delayed our postings, so bear with us. Electricity has been far from reliable as they work on laying the fiber optic cables throughout the country. There was a day or so that all the internet in eastern Africa was down.

Friday, July 9, 2010

IBY'IWACU CULTURAL VILLAGE


Upon arrival at Ruhengeri, we visited one of the local markets for some more fabric shopping. Then we headed to Iby'Iwacu Cultural Village to visit the Twa ("pygmies"). The Cultural Village was located near where we would end up gorilla trekking the next day. This was truly an cultural immersion look at the cultures of the communities living near the Volcanoes National Park. Among the participants in the re-creation of the culture are former poachers who are turning to other means of making a living. The cultural village provides legitimate employment in farming, beekeeping, and tourism.

When we arrived, Erin became the queen, Melissa the queen mother, our driver the king, and myself the senior advisor. We were dressed in native attire and given a tour of the King's home. After this we visited the medicine man, a woman grinding grain, a former poacher (and Twa) show his bow and arrow skills. Our visit ended with Intore dancers.

When we headed back to our ride, we handed out some of the friendship bracelets that were made by West Salem and Eau Claire students and my nieces. We were quickly surrounded by the children of the villages. It was a wild experience.

Photos will be coming soon!

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Batiking at the Former Meg School




Batiking at the Former Meg School

After spending some of Tuesday afternoon and Wednesday in search of all the materials that Erin would need to teach batik at the former Meg School, we returned to the school for demonstration day. This time the women and girls were much more used to the camera, so they hardly noticed it at all. This allowed for many wonderful pictures. I believe it was a good idea to bring the external hard drive to store our photos.
We arrived about 9 a.m. and Erin immediately began setting up for her demonstration. Soon the women were called out of the tiny, dark room that houses their sewing machines to see what Erin was going to be teaching them the following week. Erin carefully went through the process with the participants and leaders of the program. Many others curiously looked on as well. Soon the women were ready to take their turn at giving it a try and many took the paint brush in hand and began to paint wax on the fabric. All seemed very eager to try their hand at it, but that will come when Erin works with them next week. Erin showed them how to make dyes for the fabric out of relatively inexpensive vegetables, fruits, and spices that can be found in local markets. The women were very excited by the process. It will be interesting to see their final work.

Ensuring the Future


Yesterday, I took my daughter, Erin, to meet Everest and Albert the men who run the former “Meg Tailoring School” which teaches marginalized women sewing skills. The school a Global Grassroots project moved locations this year and is always looking for new ways to improve the skills of its students. There are currently thirty women enrolled in the sewing project.

Erin, an award winning batik artist, will be teaching the women the art of batik! So for the past few days we have been combing the outdoor markets looking for local fruits, vegetables and spices that will work as dyes. The hunt thought the market lead to wonderful half English/ half Kinyarwandan conversations about what different things looked like cooked or ground up. Not only that, there has been the smashing of grasses, plant matter and the use of dirt! All of which have created an inexpensive means to use for dye.

As Erin draws, cuts stamps from the stems of banana bunches and creates beautiful samples to share with the women, I feel as if we are working to help ensure the future of the sewing school and Global Grassroots. First, by helping to bring a new style of fiber art to the sewing school by bringing my daughter to them. Second, by instilling in my daughter the gift of giving in a foreign country. Not that she needs to understand the concept of “giving for the sake of giving’, but it is wonderful to see her put into practice ensuring the future of the practice and the organization!

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Blue Water & Magic Popcorn


When two cultures connect as they have done for us on this trip, many surprises await both sides. While we have been amazed by many of the things we've seen and done, we've had a wonderful time getting to know the two house girls at the place we are staying. Agnes is 19 and Deena is in her mid to late 20s. Both are amazingly hard workers, but we've enjoyed many laughs with them as well.


One of the earliest laughs came when we put a bleach tablet into the toilet which turn the water blue. Erin & I had just left the house, but thankfully Melissa returned about that time to find the two girls staring at the blue water in the toilet and trying to figure out exactly what to do to solve the problem because the water was not supposed to be blue. They were certain something must be wrong. After be reassured that everything was fine and that this was to help the toilet stay fresh smelling, they burst into laughter and were completely amazed.


A few days later, we took the Jiffy Pop Popcorn that I'd brought from the states to Agnes when she had a hot stove. While Melissa, Erin & I clearly knew what was going to happen, the girls, Jerome (the night security man), "Mama" (the matriarch of the compound we are staying in), and another friend carefully checked out the pan trying to figure out how exactly this was going to work. Soon Erin began heating up the pan over the burner of the stove in the small, dark tucked away outdoor kitchen. Their eyes grew in size only to match the increasing size of the foil covering the pan. Giggles erupted and amazement continued to grow as they poked at the foil bursting from the pan. Much to their amazement when it opened, out poured the popcorn which all enjoyed.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Adventures with Erin

For those of you who don’t know Erin is off on another adventure when she returns from Rwanda to her home in Nome. She will become a yurtling (http://www.nomadshelter.com/). A person who dwells in a shelter much like the nomadic Mongolians.

Erin’s yurt will have no plumbing, no electricity and an open floor plan. Meaning it is 20 feet in diameter, with a 14 ft peak in the middle of the roof and nothing inside, no walls, no nothing…… so she has a great need to “rethink” her lifestyle.

This leads us to today’s adventures with Erin, while shopping for fabric in downtown Kigali, she struck up a conversation with a seamstress about treadle sewing machines, of which there are an abundance of in Rwanda. The conversation turned into the seamstress leading us down a flight of stairs, out into the street, down an alley to the shop of a man who put together and sold machines. After 20 minutes of bargaining, Erin had a new Singer Treadle Sewing machine! Now how to explain that she wanted the desk portion taken apart was the biggest challenge!

After the man hauled the sewing machine back up the narrow flight of stairs to the seamstress’s room, with the intention of putting the machine on the deck. Thirty minutes later, plus a few more Rwandan francs, the man took apart the deck of the machine, which he had put together a few hours previously. He left us with a handshake and the shake of his head at those crazy Americans.

Erin is happy as any yurtling can be! But she has to find a way to carry the machine, pieces and all back to Nome, all 4000ish miles.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Liberation Day—Celebrating Post-Genocide Rwanda

To truly get a sense of Rwanda and its people, we woke early and made the trek on foot to the National Stadium in Kigali with what seemed like half the residents of the city. As dawn was breaking in America on Independence Day, the people of Rwanda were celebrating the liberation following the devastation of the genocide that claimed approximately one million lives in 100 days. It was clear the day was meant to celebrate the Rwanda that arose from those dark days.

As we arrived at the stadium, lines were beginning to form and we headed to the end of one of those lines where we were quickly met by a Rwandan police officer. He grabbed us by the arms and escorted the three muzungo women to the front of the line. After a brief pat down, we headed to the stands with the wave of Rwandans who had come to celebrate the occasion. Slowly the stadium began to fill, but we were quickly surrounded by several Rwandan children who were interested in checking us out. Besides our pale complexions, they were fascinated by the sunglasses.

Imagine if you will, a stadium built for 300,000 packed with 400,000. Women wore their best brightly colored clothes. We found ourselves surrounded by the youth of Rwanda, many whom had been born after the genocide. People were joyously singing, clapping, drumming, and dancing from the moment they hit the stadium.

The day was full of military pomp and circumstance as members of the Rwandan military-- about 1500 total (including the police force) were proudly paraded before the crowd. Seven helicopters completed a fly over of the stadium. You must realize this was the entire military of display. Heavy security surrounded President Paul Kigame as he reviewed the troops. The Rwandan flag arrived in its own truck with its own military/police escort. The crowd was entertained by military marching, the president's bands (he has 2), a martial arts exhibition, and a skit about AIDS/HIV (we think-- you must remember very little of this was done in English). Two Americans, Representative Donald Milford Paine and Humanitarian Roger Winter were presented Presidential Medals for their assistance to the Rwandan people during the genocide.

The pride the Rwandans have in their country is evident. What came to mind while I was there was the idea behind one of the questions posed during my early course work at Eau Claire this summer. The question looked at the changing way Americans regard independence and celebrate July 4th. I couldn't help but wonder if as time passes the occasion will have different meanings to the future Rwandese.

Giving into the heat and the crowdedness of the day, we begged the military forces guarding all entrances to allow us to leave. Sadly, we did miss President Kigame's address. Since no carry ins of any kind were allowed, I'd suggest checking out the events on one of the many You Tube postings-- including http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_JKYTW7cCU.

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Wild Africa—A Day in Akagera National Park




We traveled over dusty roads to the park. Men, women and children lined the roads. Some on bikes, but many on foot. Many among them were hauling goods (bananas, chickens, goats, wood, etc.) to market, while others were making their way to market to shop. Many young boys and girls were headed to the local source of water to fill their gerry cans and head back up hill to home with a fresh supply of water for their families. The source of water were easy to spot with their lines of people with gerry cans and the women doing the laundry and laying it on the ground beside the water. Children along the road curiously and excitedly waved at the muzungos as we passed. What so often came to mind is that the American kids (and adults too) don't know how lucky they are. This trek for water up and down the many hills of the "Land of a Thousand Hills" is a daily occurrence. This water is the only source for cooking, cleaning, washing, and drinking. For many young children this is their life, trips back and forth to the well--no school and very little time to play.

Akagera National Park borders Tanzania in the northwest of Rwanda. The park boasts over 550 of birds in just under 2000 square kilometers. It has an amazing array of animal life including-- zebras, giraffes, hippos, waterbucks, antelopes, baboons, monkeys, lions, and leopards. The park was once much larger, but when genocide survivors returned to their homeland in the mid-1990s, the government offered them half of the land in the original park.

After an introduction to the park, we set off with James, our guide and an expert on the birds of Akagera. We drove a bit before seeing large congregations of wildlife, but once we found just the right area of the park, it was teeming with animals. We jostled for 5-6 hours through the park enjoying the brightly colored birds that flitted from tree to tree. More than once our dusty trail was crossed by one form of antelope or another. Zebras paused at a safe distance to take a look at us as our cameras snapped away at them.

Eventually, the trail opened into a wide spreading savanna (grassland area) which was teeming with wildlife. Here it seemed the initial half dozen or so giraffes that we first saw were just as interested in looking at us as we were at looking at them. The newest addition was a 2 week old baby giraffe which seemed equally as curious about us. When the adult giraffes left us, the young one lingered. These are truly beautiful creatures. After pausing for some time, we drove on to enjoy herds of zebras, waterbucks, antelopes, and warthogs. We enjoyed our lunch in the middle of a savanna under a small tree which contained huge thorns before heading off to capture a look at the hippos who were enjoying the warm day tucked comfortably away in one of the small lakes in the park. Every once in a while, we saw noses, eyes, and very tips of heads emerge to greet us.

After a long day enjoying the wildlife and views of Akagera Park, we headed back down the bumpy roads (enjoying the back massage all the way). Passed hundreds of people as they headed one place or another. Upon return we all sought to remove the coating of dust from our day's adventure.

Friday, July 2, 2010

July 2—On the Road to Akagera National Park




On Friday we were off on our adventure to Akagara National Park in northeastern Rwanda. We traveled by way of Ruhengeri to shorten the hours on the road and to assure that we would arrive at the park in the morning to see the vast array of wildlife found there. After checking into our accommodations for the night, we spent much of Friday wandering the markets of the city in search of some of the fine baskets to be found in Rwanda. Along the way, we passed the “stork tree” and it quickly became quite apparent how it received the name. All levels of the tree were filled with storks of all sizes. After some time wandering through the stalls of just about anything one might need, we finally connected with just the right person. We were lead to this tucked away building near the back of the market. Inside the building, we found about a half dozen women from a cooperative in the beginning stages of making baskets and shelves full of a wide array of basketry and bags. As we were leaving the market area, we past a school with dozens of small children, who much to the dismay of their teacher, rushed the doors and chanted “muzungos” (their term for white) to capture our attention.
After returning to the hotel for a bit of a rest, we traveled to Jambo Beach on Lake Muhazi. We were warmly greeted by the locals who eagerly showed us to the lakeshore and were eager to make us welcome. Just a short distance away on this lake Rwandan President Paul Kigame has a home. We returned to the hotel for a quiet evening while most of Rwanda was tuned in to watch Ghana (the last African team) compete and ultimately lose in World Cup play. The people of Africa are completely mesmerized by the FIFA World Cup being played in South Africa, so Ghana’s loss disappointed the entire continent.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

July 1—I’m Finally Here!

I arrived safely late Thursday night, Rwanda time. Flights were thankfully uneventful. I was never so glad to see Melissa waiting amongst the mass of people as I made my way through the mob with my luggage. We drove from the Kigali airport to the place we would be staying just outside the center of Kigali, in Remara. The lights of city built among the countless hills in the area were breathtakingly beautiful. The streets were full of people milling about. Traffic was beyond description even at that late hour. Motos (motorcycle taxis) zipped in an out of the cars and trucks going here and there. All in all, I arrived safe and sound after about 24 hours traveling through Washington D.C. and Brussels before finally landing in Kigali.

Village Fund Raising


Add a project to the list - G G Academy Day 9

Add a project to the list
A received an email from a professor at Clemson asking me to work on a project with her while I am in Rwanda. She would like me to document “ A day in the life of a Teacher.” It sounds like a great idea, and I was able to round up teacher via the G.G. Academy and a friend in Ramagana. The project entails having the teachers use a disposable camera to document their day and have me take interviews about the day. . . . . great idea. I will keep you apprised of the project as it progresses.

Day 9 of the Global Grassroots Academy focused on final details of the putting together all the information learned to make a cohesive project plan and presentation. We also looked past the regular nuts and bolts of funding to in-kind donations and looking for people to pay fees for the services you provide. In essence the more funding you can come up with locally the better off your organization will be in the long run.

Then the challenge was given to the groups. They were given a bucket full of everyday items and told to go out into the village and fund raise! It was a blast watching them do tricks with the toys from the bucket, sing songs and talk and talk and talk…. The group that won was the group that is working on The Poor Level of Education Given to Girls! Their gathered the most in-kind donations of any group.

Erin is here!

Erin is here! My daughter Erin, a teacher in Alaska is finally here. Only three days late. Her travels started late in Chicago, due to a thunderstorm, and from there the dominos started to fall; a day in Brussels, flights to Paris, Madrid, Addis Ababa , and then finally Kigali. All total from Nome, she had seven flights, nine cities, two overnight layovers, and three continents for a total of five days in transit! No wonder her bags did not arrive with her. . . . she did travel with her ukulele and played it in the park in Brussels making a total of less than one Euro and an English shilling!

Budget - G.G. Academy Day 8

Budget – G.G. Academy Day 8

Today the G.G. Academy participants learn how to budget their programs, finance fundraising and the rest, a very useful tool in the development of a social change project.

I thought it would be more interesting for you to understand about the current Rwandan economy. The Rwandan Franc ranges from 580 – 595 to 1 U.S. dollar. If you go to the black market you can sometimes get an even higher price.
So what does the Rfc have the power to purchase? Here is a rundown. . . .

Bus Ride from my house to down town: 180 Rfc = ~ .30

Moto ride from my house to down town: 800 Rfc= $1.20 plus tip

Taxi Ride from my house to down town: 1000 Rfc = ~ $ 1.80 plus tip

Two Kilos (4lbs) of Green Beans at outdoor market: 400 Rfc = ~$.90

Bunch of the “small “ bananas” : 600Rfc = ~$1.10

Whole Pineapple (more fresh that you will ever know): 800 Rfc = ~$1.20

Bottle of Water (small) : 1300Rfc = ~ $ 2.25

Small jar of Peanut butter : 1800 Rfc = ~$3.00

Dress, made to measure by seamstress, with fabric: 5,000 Rfc = $8.60

Along for the Ride- G.G. Academy Day 6 & 7

I have not discussed the drive to Gitarama we make each day to get to the Global Grassroots Academy. Gitarama is about one hour drive, in regular traffic, from Kigali. The difficulty is that Kigali is a city of 900,000 people who sleep here, and during the day the population rises to about 1.3 million, thus the traffic is horrid. Our drive starts in the minibus at 7:30 ish, this is Rwandan time, there is always an “ish” attached to time here. We travel through the city picking up people at various spots, working our way through construction traffic, morning commuters and motos. (A moto, is a motorcycle or some variation there of, which gives you a ride for a very cheap price and a very big thrill. They have no sense of speed, danger or traffic etiquette. Driving against traffic, against a one way and in-between cars and buses in the lanes of bumper-to-bumper traffic are all part of the thrill.) By the time we leave Kigali to start on the Gitarama road, we are late.

The Gitarama road has just as much traffic but rather than motos there are buses packed to the gills, trucks stacked well over the weight limit and much, much too high, cars/minibuses, like us, late for their intended goal and people. People of every size and age, walking and carrying everything from that days water supply to market goods to babies on their back and firewood on their heads, the entire length of the Gitarama road. Yet, the countryside is beautiful. Rolling hills covered with a variety of shades of green; the green of banana leaves, the green corn ready to harvest, the green of long grasses and wide variety of trees. As you look deep into the valleys, farmers are working hard in their fields and rice patties, gathering sorghum with its brown tassels blowing in the slight breeze, tilling cabbage and lettuce with the colours of the deep rich soil in between each delicate head, breaking new ground by hand, men with their dark skin against the rich soil and always the brilliance of the colours of the fabric the women wear! Oranges and reds, yellows and blues cause the sky to pale against their rich hues.

Hard work and “ish,” thrills and beauty, and the Gitarama road are reflective of days 6 and 7 of the Global Grassroots Academy. Mission Statements and Theory of Change where the tasks set forth in these two days, as well as reporting out root causes to the Social Problem the groups wished to work on. Prior to approaching the concept of a mission statement, we looked at what people are good at-- what are their assets; personal, as a group and via the people they know. These assets can help to solve the problems we are working on and they can also help to remind us of our own abilities in approaching life’s trials.

The G.G. Academy teaches that the Theory of Change is purpose driven not activity driven. It explains why the group’s program is going to work. When the group is talking to donors, clients, etc, if your Theory of Change is clear you will be better able to extend your message. As your statement addresses the main problem it should also address how your program activity is going to cause change. The Mission Statement addresses why what we do exists, what problems we hope to address and how are we going to address them.

Everyone has the ability to work hard, thus is it an asset. We also all have the ability to apply “ish” to tasks, this trait either good or bad, must be measured by its owner. The thrill of helping or doing good and the beauty of tasks accomplished all continue to be measured by the person or persons accomplishing the tasks. Then there is the Gitarama Road itself, riding along, you can watch out the front window, terrified by the traffic and the shape the road is in or you could look out the side window and see the beauty of the county, the grace of the hills and the elegance of the people. It depends which ride you care to take – thus shaping your Theory of Change and Mission Statement.

Alone for the Ride- G.G. Academy Day 6 & 7

I have not discussed the drive to Gitarama we make each day to get to the Global Grassroots Academy. Gitarama is about one hour drive, in regular traffic, from Kigali. The difficulty is that Kigali is a city of 900,000 people who sleep here, and during the day the population rises to about 1.3 million, thus the traffic is horrid. Our drive starts in the minibus at 7:30 ish, this is Rwandan time, there is always an “ish” attached to time here. We travel through the city picking up people at various spots, working our way through construction traffic, morning commuters and motos. (A moto, is a motorcycle or some variation there of, which gives you a ride for a very cheap price and a very big thrill. They have no sense of speed, danger or traffic etiquette. Driving against traffic, against a one way and in-between cars and buses in the lanes of bumper-to-bumper traffic are all part of the thrill.) By the time we leave Kigali to start on the Gitarama road, we are late.

The Gitarama road has just as much traffic but rather than motos there are buses packed to the gills, trucks stacked well over the weight limit and much, much too high, cars/minibuses, like us, late for their intended goal and people. People of every size and age, walking and carrying everything from that days water supply to market goods to babies on their back and firewood on their heads, the entire length of the Gitarama road. Yet, the countryside is beautiful. Rolling hills covered with a variety of shades of green; the green of banana leaves, the green corn ready to harvest, the green of long grasses and wide variety of trees. As you look deep into the valleys, farmers are working hard in their fields and rice patties, gathering sorghum with its brown tassels blowing in the slight breeze, tilling cabbage and lettuce with the colours of the deep rich soil in between each delicate head, breaking new ground by hand, men with their dark skin against the rich soil and always the brilliance of the colours of the fabric the women wear! Oranges and reds, yellows and blues cause the sky to pale against their rich hues.

Hard work and “ish,” thrills and beauty, and the Gitarama road are reflective of days 6 and 7 of the Global Grassroots Academy. Mission Statements and Theory of Change where the tasks set forth in these two days, as well as reporting out root causes to the Social Problem the groups wished to work on. Prior to approaching the concept of a mission statement, we looked at what people are good at-- what are their assets; personal, as a group and via the people they know. These assets can help to solve the problems we are working on and they can also help to remind us of our own abilities in approaching life’s trials.

The G.G. Academy teaches that the Theory of Change is purpose driven not activity driven. It explains why the group’s program is going to work. When the group is talking to donors, clients, etc, if your Theory of Change is clear you will be better able to extend your message. As your statement addresses the main problem it should also address how your program activity is going to cause change. The Mission Statement addresses why what we do exists, what problems we hope to address and how are we going to address them.

Everyone has the ability to work hard, thus is it an asset. We also all have the ability to apply “ish” to tasks, this trait either good or bad, must be measured by its owner. The thrill of helping or doing good and the beauty of tasks accomplished all continue to be measured by the person or persons accomplishing the tasks. Then there is the Gitarama Road itself, riding along, you can watch out the front window, terrified by the traffic and the shape the road is in or you could look out the side window and see the beauty of the county, the grace of the hills and the elegance of the people. It depends which ride you care to take – thus shaping your Theory of Change and Mission Statement.

Living without Power - GG Academy Day 5

“Living without power” has been both a literal and figurative statement for many of the participants in the Global Grassroots Academy. Although I thought I understood the concept, within a Developing Nation, I did not really grasp its meaning until this past week. First my story and then more about the G.G. Academy. . . .

The house in Rwanda where we have been living has intermittently been without power for the past week to week and a half give or take. At times it is off during the day and on during the evening or the other way around. It seems to prefer to cut out during Skype calls and when one is in the shower, hair full of soap. Often times it is off for days, leaving us to wander the halls after 6:30 p.m. with flashlights or book lights trying to get things done. This makes our house staff’s jobs extra hard and I try to do my best to pitch in…. they must carry water in from the tanks for use in bathing, toilet flushing, etc. All the water must be boiled on the cook stove, rather than in our hot pot for drinking. Just think about having to carry all the water you use into the house rather than turning on the tap. You quickly become aware of how powerless you are if you are thirsty and there is no clean water, if you want to bathe and there is nothing in the bucket. What about something as simple as just washing your hands? We only have to walk across the yard to get water from the catchment system and not miles to get water from a well two or three times a day, yet we feel powerless.

Today at the Social Change Academy we looked at the power one has to create social change from within and from without. Everyone has the power to create conscious change; first, one needs to develop the compassion to create change, next they must look deeply into themselves in order to find the passion that is going to move you and others forward. Once you make your intentions known, you should reflect to see what part of yourself wants these changes. It is the purest intentions, which keeps us on track to create social change. If we keep our intentions pure, and do not get caught up or lost in the need or desire for power, then we are able to create conscious change.

Change is not easy on oneself or those we are serving. It is often seen as the powerful helping the powerless, yet should not be viewed in that way. A good way to understand the process is to say: it is those who can, helping those who will. This view has much better balance. As things progress, we need to continue to evaluate intentions, our own, our groups and the population we are serving; as things change, intentions must be kept clear. Look at all needs, respond with wisdom and act out of necessity and you will have the beginning of transformation . . . of Conscious Social Change. Thus, all involved will begin to live with power.
 
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